Cheese-making in Tuscany is more than a tradition—it’s a deep-rooted cultural practice that has been passed down through generations. In particular, sheep’s cheese in Maremma has a story as rich and flavorful as the cheese itself. This is a tale of terroir, tradition, and taste—woven through my own experience of making pecorino cheese using fresh, local sheep’s milk.
Nestled in the rolling hills of southern Tuscany, Maremma remains a stronghold of artisanal and organic traditions. Here, surrounded by vineyards, olive groves, and Mediterranean scrubland, I had the privilege to make my own pecorino cheese—using milk from my neighbor’s flock, a little know-how, and a deep respect for the region’s culinary history.
The History of Sheep’s Cheese in Maremma
A Legacy of Flavour
Pecorino cheese, derived from the Italian word pecora (meaning sheep), is one of Tuscany’s most iconic products. It has been made in the region for centuries, dating back to Etruscan and Roman times, when sheep grazed freely across the hills and meadows. Maremma’s climate—dry summers and mild, wet winters—creates ideal pastures for sheep, which feed on wild herbs, grasses, and aromatic plants. This natural diet imparts a distinct flavor to their milk, which is the cornerstone of truly excellent cheese.
Throughout history, pecorino was a cheese for the people. It was aged and preserved for long periods, providing a valuable food source throughout the year. Over time, every village and family in Maremma had its own approach to making cheese—techniques adapted to the local environment and handed down like heirlooms.
My Journey Into Making Sheep’s Cheese in Tuscany
A Neighbor, A Bucket, and A Dream
It all started with a bucket of fresh, raw sheep’s milk from my neighbor’s farm. Their small flock grazes freely on open fields filled with thyme, rosemary, and wild fennel—giving the milk incredible depth. I had been dreaming of making cheese for some time, and with access to this incredible raw material, I couldn’t resist the urge to try.
For safety and control, I began by pasteurising the milk—heating it slowly to 63°C (145°F) and holding it there for 30 minutes. This helped eliminate any unwanted bacteria while preserving the character of the milk. Pasteurisation is often a debated step in artisanal cheese-making, but for a first-timer using non-commercial milk, it’s a reassuring one.
To make pecorino or any artisanal sheep’s cheese, you don’t need much:
A large stainless steel pot
A thermometer
A cheese mold
A colander and cheesecloth
Rennet (natural animal rennet is traditionally used)
Cheese salt or non-iodized sea salt
A cheese press (optional, but useful for hard cheeses)
Step-by-Step: How to Make Sheep’s Cheese (Pecorino Style)
1. Warm the Milk
After pasteurising and cooling the milk to 38°C (100°F), I stirred in the rennet. Traditional pecorino uses natural lamb or calf rennet, and I sourced mine from a small local supplier who specializes in products for Tuscan cheese-making.
2. Curds and Whey
Within 45 minutes, the milk had set into a smooth, gel-like curd. I cut the curd into small cubes and slowly stirred it to help expel the whey. This is a crucial step in making pecorino cheese—the firmer the curd, the drier (and ultimately harder) the cheese.
3. Molding and Pressing
Once the curds reached the right texture, I ladled them into a mold lined with cheesecloth. I gently pressed the cheese over several hours to remove excess whey, flipping it occasionally to ensure even pressure. After unmolding, I salted the surface of the cheese with coarse sea salt.
4. Aging the Cheese
Now the magic begins. The wheel was placed in a cool, humidity-controlled environment (my converted cellar!) and turned regularly. Over the next 30 to 90 days, the cheese began to transform—developing a firm rind, a deepening color, and that unmistakable nutty, tangy aroma. The longer it aged, the more intense and complex the flavor became.
The Flavour of Maremma in Every Bite
Why Maremma Makes the Best Pecorino
The secret behind Maremma pecorino lies in its terroir. The unique combination of salty sea breezes, wild herbs, and fertile soil gives the sheep’s milk a character that simply cannot be replicated elsewhere. Even the microorganisms in the air and the surfaces of the cheese cave affect the flavor and aroma.
Tuscany offers many varieties of pecorino cheese, from the soft and fresh pecorino fresco to the aged and spicy pecorino stagionato. Each one reflects not only the aging process but also the personality of the cheese-maker, the milk used, and the grazing pasture of the sheep.
Pecorino Toscano DOP, A Protected Tradition
Many people ask, “Is your cheese Pecorino Toscano DOP?” While I’m making a traditional pecorino-style cheese, it is not certified under the DOP (Denominazione di Origine Protetta) label, which ensures strict geographical and procedural requirements. However, the essence of that tradition is deeply respected in my process—from the use of local sheep’s milk to aging the cheese naturally, without artificial preservatives or industrial shortcuts.
The Role of Sheep Cheese in Tuscan Cuisine
In Maremma, pecorino is not just cheese—it’s part of the meal, the culture, and even the celebration. You’ll find it in:
Tagliere Misto – a mixed board of local cheeses and cured meats
Tortelli Maremmani – large ricotta- and spinach-filled pasta, often served with grated pecorino
Crostini con Pecorino e Miele – cheese drizzled with local honey or fig compote
Insalata di Pere e Pecorino – fresh pear and aged pecorino salad
Pecorino also pairs wonderfully with Tuscan red wines, such as Sangiovese or Morellino di Scansano. The bold, earthy flavors of the cheese match beautifully with the structure and fruit of the wines from the region.
Sheep Cheese Making in Tuscany Today
Artisans, Farms, and Agriturismi
Across Maremma and greater Tuscany, many family farms and agriturismi continue to produce exceptional sheep’s cheese. Some welcome visitors to participate in cheese-making workshops, offering the chance to learn ancient techniques and taste cheeses straight from the aging room.
There is also a rising trend toward organic and sustainable cheese-making in Tuscany. Farmers are focusing on animal welfare, natural pastures, and minimal intervention in the cheese-making process. The result is a new wave of artisanal cheeses that stay true to Tuscan tradition while also respecting the environment.
What I Learned From Making My Own Sheep Cheese
Making pecorino cheese at home in Maremma was more than just a culinary experiment—it was a connection to the land and its history. It taught me patience, precision, and how much can be expressed through such simple ingredients: milk, rennet, salt, and time.
This journey also deepened my appreciation for local producers who craft exceptional cheeses by hand, day after day. Whether aged for weeks or matured for years, every wheel of pecorino tells a story—of the sheep, the pasture, the maker, and the place.
Tips for Aspiring Home Cheesemakers
If you’re considering trying your hand at homemade sheep’s cheese, here are some practical tips:
Use the freshest milk possible – ideally from local sheep fed on pasture
Sanitize all equipment to prevent unwanted bacterial contamination
Take detailed notes on temperature, timing, and flavor development
Be patient – cheese-making is as much about waiting as it is doing
Age your cheese in a space where temperature and humidity are stable
And most importantly—don’t be afraid to experiment. Cheese-making is part science, part art, and part instinct.
Where to Experience Sheep’s Cheese in Maremma
If you’re visiting Maremma Tuscany, here are a few ways to immerse yourself in the world of pecorino:
Farm tours and tastings – Many cheese-makers open their doors to the public
Weekly village markets – Taste and buy a range of pecorino varieties
Agriturismo stays – Live on a working sheep farm and learn hands-on
Local festivals – Events like the “Sagra del Pecorino” celebrate cheese season
You might even take home a wheel or two—or, like me, be inspired to make your own.
Why Pecorino is the Soul of Maremma
From Etruscan roots to modern kitchens, pecorino cheese remains the heart of Tuscany’s rural culinary tradition. Making it myself, with local sheep’s milk and time-honored techniques, gave me a whole new appreciation for the craftsmanship involved. It also reminded me of the power of food to connect us—to nature, to each other, and to our past.
In Maremma, pecorino isn’t just a cheese. It’s a story, a heritage, and a way of life.
