A Visit to Orbetello Lagoon, Where Nature, History, and Serenity Embrace
In the heart of Maremma, southern Tuscany lies a place where time seems to stretch lazily across the horizon, where the waters reflect more than just the sky—they mirror the soul of Maremma.
This is the Orbetello Lagoon, a stunning coastal ecosystem that seamlessly fuses natural beauty, rich history, vibrant birdlife, and the quiet hum of a centuries-old culture.
Whether you are a nature lover, a history buff, a passionate photographer, or simply someone seeking peace and reflection, Orbetello Lagoon offers a visit unlike any other.
Where Land Meets Water, Understanding the Lagoon
Orbetello Lagoon (Laguna di Orbetello) is a striking natural feature set along the southern Tuscan coast in the province of Grosseto. It lies just inland from the Tyrrhenian Sea, bounded by two spectacular stretches of land known as tomboli—the Tombolo della Giannella and the Tombolo della Feniglia. These sandy spits connect the Argentario Promontory, a former island turned peninsula, to the Tuscan mainland, creating the shallow, brackish water body that is the lagoon.
The lagoon covers approximately 26 square kilometers and is divided into two distinct sections—Laguna di Levante (East Lagoon) and Laguna di Ponente (West Lagoon)—separated by a narrow artificial dam called the Diga Leopoldina. This dam supports a roadway and a cycling path that lead into the historic town of Orbetello, which sits proudly on a narrow strip of land in the very center of the lagoon.
Upon Arrival, First Impressions of a Coastal Jewel
Our visit to Orbetello began in the late morning, after a scenic drive through the rolling hills and vineyards of the Maremma countryside. As we approached the lagoon from the inland side, the landscape opened dramatically. The air grew saltier, and the road was flanked by stretches of shimmering water on either side. We pulled over near a small lookout point just outside the town and stepped out. The lagoon glistened like polished glass under the Tuscan sun, the stillness broken only by the ripples left behind by wading birds.
The first impression is one of calm. Unlike the bustling coastlines further north or the crowded piazzas of Florence, Orbetello Lagoon whispers rather than shouts. It invites you to slow down and observe, to breathe in deeply and allow nature’s rhythms to reset your own.
Crossing the dam into the town of Orbetello feels like entering a living painting. The town is compact yet lively, retaining its medieval charm with narrow alleys, flower-decked balconies, and warm, earthy tones on every building. The city walls, originally built by the Etruscans and reinforced by the Spanish during their rule in the 16th and 17th centuries, still stand proudly.
A visit to the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta, built on the remains of an Etruscan Roman temple and later remodeled in the Gothic style, is essential. Inside, we were struck by the serenity, a theme that echoed throughout the lagoon. The streets surrounding the cathedral house cozy cafés and traditional Tuscan osterias where one can sip an espresso or indulge in a plate of pici cacio e pepe or fresh local seafood.
Wandering further, we discovered Porta a Terra, one of the ancient city gates, and the ruins of the Spanish windmill at the entrance to the lagoon—a romantic, photogenic relic that still stands tall in the water like a sentinel of time.
Birdwatching Paradise, Life on the Wing
One of the defining characteristics of the Orbetello Lagoon is its role as a haven for birdlife. The lagoon lies on a key migratory route, and its shallow waters, mudflats, and reed beds provide an ideal habitat for many species.
The WWF Oasis of Orbetello, located on the eastern shore of the lagoon, is a protected area of around 800 hectares. It is among the most important wetland reserves in Italy and perhaps all of Europe. Here, I joined a small guided walk led by a local ornithologist. Armed with binoculars and a deep reverence for nature, we ventured through wooden walkways and quiet observation huts.
Flamingos, those flamboyant pink icons of the lagoon, strutted gracefully in the shallows. A group of spoonbills dipped their flat beaks into the water in synchronized harmony. I saw herons, egrets, avocets, and even the elusive marsh harrier sweeping low over the reeds. The birds seemed unfazed by our presence, as if aware that this place belonged to them first.
Whether you’re an avid birder or just curious about nature, the birdlife of Orbetello is a soul-stirring spectacle. Visiting in winter or spring is especially rewarding, as migratory patterns peak during these seasons.
After lunch in town—grilled sea bass and a glass of Ansonica, a local white wine—I drove toward the Tombolo della Feniglia, located to the southeast of the lagoon. Unlike the more developed Tombolo della Giannella to the northwest, Feniglia is a protected nature reserve that boasts a flat, pine-shaded trail stretching for seven kilometers.
Here, I rented a bicycle and pedaled leisurely along the trail. The scent of maritime pines and sea air mingled, and every so often, I would stop and detour to the beach. The Tyrrhenian Sea was gentle that day, its waves lapping at the golden sand. The lagoon, on the opposite side, remained serene.
Wildlife sightings here are not limited to birds. I glimpsed a family of wild boar rustling through the underbrush and spotted deer tracks in the sand. This area is also known for its population of fallow deer, who often appear in the early morning or late afternoon.
Culture in the Shadows of the Sea
The region around Orbetello Lagoon is layered with history. Beyond the Etruscan roots of Orbetello town, the nearby Argentario Promontory—just a short drive or bike ride away—is dotted with ancient watchtowers and fortifications. These were built to protect the coast from pirates and invaders and today offer dramatic views over the sea and lagoon.
Closer to the lagoon, the ruins of Cosa, an ancient Roman colony founded in 273 BC, are perched on a hill near the town of Ansedonia. From this archaeological site, you can gaze down upon the entire lagoon and beyond. Walking among the ruins of the forum and basilica, with birds calling overhead and the wind whispering through cypress trees, it’s easy to feel connected to the long and varied history of this region.
Local Flavor, Culinary Gifts of the Lagoon
Food in this part of Tuscany is deeply connected to the land and sea. Orbetello is famous for its traditional bottarga, a delicacy made from the roe of grey mullet, salted and air-dried. I visited a small local producer, where an elderly gentleman explained the painstaking process passed down through generations. Bottarga is often grated over pasta or served in thin slices with olive oil and lemon a flavor that is both intense and delicately marine.
In the evening, I dined at a trattoria with lagoon views and sampled anguilla sfumata, smoked eel, another local specialty. Paired with Tuscan bread and a glass of Morellino di Scansano, the meal felt like a tribute to centuries of culinary tradition rooted in this very water.
Sunset Magic, When Light Paints the Lagoon
As the day came to a close, I found myself once more at the edge of the lagoon, near the old Spanish windmill. The sun began its slow descent, casting golden light across the water. The birds began to settle, their calls quieting. The entire landscape transformed into a dreamscape of purples, oranges, and pinks.
Few places offer sunsets as magical as Orbetello Lagoon. The interplay between land, sea, and sky, with the silhouette of Monte Argentario in the distance, creates a natural amphitheater for light. I stood in silence, taking it all in, unwilling to rush the moment.
Why Orbetello Lagoon Matters
In a world that moves quickly, often at the cost of its natural treasures, Orbetello Lagoon remains a place of balance. It is a living demonstration of how ecosystems, history, and human life can coexist. The lagoon’s delicate health is carefully maintained by conservationists, and its continued vitality depends on our collective respect for such sacred natural spaces.
Visiting Orbetello Lagoon is not about checking off tourist sights. It is about immersion. It’s about standing still and noticing the quiet beauty of a heron poised in shallow water, or feeling the wind shift as you walk an ancient trail between sea and lagoon. It’s in the taste of smoked eel and the lingering scent of pine resin, in the layers of civilization that have left their mark, and in the people who call this place home.
Whether you visit for a day, a weekend, or return time and again, Orbetello Lagoon will change you. It will slow your step, open your eyes, and, if you let it, teach you to see the world in gentler ways.
